Red Lipstick Guide

Red lipstick is both a classic and a bold statement. There are a lot of things that can go wrong when you're looking for the perfect red pout and I'm here to help! I get a lot of questions about red lipstick when I wear it, so here's a guide for anyone who's unsure how to apply or which shade to choose.

How do I apply red lipstick?

Getting a perfect, clean line requires a few things. First, you need to exfoliate your lips. Rub a toothbrush over them when you're done brushing or invest in a good lip scrub to get rid of any flakiness.  If you have granulated sugar and olive oil you can also mix the two to create a lip scrub.

After a lip scrub you can apply a lip primer. My favorite primer, Pixi Lip & Line Primer Duo, was unfortunately discontinued. I currently use Burt’s Bee’s Beeswax lip balm as my only primer.  It’s important to avoid the shea butter version for red lipstick, because it’s too creamy.  Anything too creamy as a base makes your lipstick slide off. A lip balm with a waxier, less creamy texture has more grip for the ingredients in lipstick.

A lip liner defines a border for your lipstick and helps it stay within that border.  It also typically sticks to your lips when you’re eating and drinking, so you don’t have to reapply as urgently after a meal because there’s still pigment on your lips.  If you have to choose between a primer and a liner, choose a liner.

If you want a true red, you need a really pigmented formula that is already a bright, clear red in the tube. I recommend M.A.C. Ruby Woo for a true bright red if you have cool-toned skin (I do.) I’ve heard that M.A.C. Lady Danger is good for warm/olive-toned skin.  M.A.C. Ruby Woo has a matching lipliner, also called Ruby Woo.  Lady Danger matches the High Energy or Redd lipliners from M.A.C.

How do I keep from looking like a clown and ending the day with lipstick all over my face?

Start with a smooth canvas and carefully apply your lip liner.  The smooth canvas prevents flakiness that creates smudges and the liner helps the lipstick stick. 

When you’re wearing a really pigmented lipstick it can sometimes spread beyond your lips as it warms up during the day, or because of eating and drinking.  To minimize this you can outline your lips with a clear wax lipliner outside the border of where you applied the pigmented lipliner.

When eating and drinking with red lips it’s always less messy to use a knife, fork, spoon, and straw to eat and drink.  If your bottom lip is full it might rub against your chin and leave red marks when you take big bites and big gulps.  Try to take small sips and smaller bites.  If you’re biting into things, like a sandwich, you can always try tearing small pieces with your hands and putting them in your mouth.  Wearing red lipstick is usually much easier at a formal dinner than when you’re at a burger joint.

Here’s the real secret to neat and crisp red lipstick, and it’s not even about your lips at all: use a creamy concealer to clean up any mistakes. Bring your concealer with you to clean up any smudges that happen during the day.  Bring tissues to take lipstick off before eating really greasy food or sandwiches.

Why doesn’t red lipstick look good on me? I’m doing all the things right!

If your lipstick still looks “odd” on your face, even when you’re applying it perfectly, there’s a pretty good chance you’re choosing the wrong shade for your skin tone.  Generally, there are “warm” reds and “cool” reds.  You need a warm red if your coloring is warmer, and cool red if your coloring is cooler (that’s not the same as being dark/light skinned.)

There are exceptions and sometimes those with cool undertones can wear warm shades and vice versa.  A cool red can make your teeth look whiter and a warm red can make your skin perk up, even if you’re not the “right” tone to wear it.

To get a good match, it’s probably best to visit a makeup counter or make an appointment with a good makeup artist for a consultation about which color is right for you.